Location - Yperia Hotel, Amorgos

The steep island of the big blue

Amorgos

The Island of the big blue.

Amorgos is a remarkably unspoiled island at the south-eastern edge of the Cyclades group, where traditional customs are still inextricably interwoven into a landscape as rich in beauty as in its history. Originally inhabited by seafarers from Asia Minor in the 4th Century BC, the island now cradles a people who enjoy a lifestyle that has been shaped by a varied and dramatic past. This is a place that appears untouched by time, but where the inhabitants quietly preserve one of the best kept secrets of the Aegean.

02 Amorgos

Walking on Amorgos

means fresh air, sun, smell from the herbs and an endless view of the bright blue Aegean Sea. You can have this view from almost every single point of your route. Things to be taken into consideration; it was not until the mid 1990s that the first proper roads were constructed. These are; a) From Chora to Arkesini southwards and b) from Chora to Aegiali northwards. Before then, the car as a means of transport was of little importance. Donkeys used to be the essential means of transport by land and therefore, a well-designed “system” of cobbled paths used to cross the island and guarantee the transportation of goods to the villages. Despite the fact that nowadays the car has already “invaded” the island, Amorgos remains peaceful and quiet. The traditional paths have mostly been preserved, providing us with amazing opportunities of exploring the island. Even today, it is possible to meet donkeys carrying heavy loads of fresh goat milk from the fields to the villages. It is at this specific moment that time seems to have stopped for a while and an idea of how hard life in Amorgos used to be can be gained. With an altitude of nearly 850 meters, Amorgos offers a variety of different possibilities of exploration. Considering that all this hypsometrical scale is actually completed within a short distance starting from the shore, it is easily understood that certain requirements must be met by anyone attempting such a tour. On the ridges the sun is really merciless. On the high peaks, the whole area can be covered by dense fog within a few minutes, while strong winds usually blow. These hard conditions should not be underestimated in any case. Drinkable water, suitable shoes and a special jacket are necessary. Even in the marked routes, suitable shoes should be worn and drinkable water should be brought along.

03 What to do on Amorgos island

The Monastey of Panagia Chozoviotissa

There are 300 steps that separate the visitor from the entrance to the monastery. Another 900 years separate him from the monastery’s establishment. That which unites everyone no matter who visits the monastery is the awe and the admiration for this important work, a memorial hymn for the human faith and will. In a rough landscape of unbelievable beauty and wildness, loyal people overcame their weaknesses and managed what today is known as a small miracle. Built upon steep rock cliffs it hangs into an abyss as if touched by the hand of God. The monastery was built in 1088 and was renovated by the Byzantine emperor Alexio Komnino. The reason for the erection of the monastery was the finding of an icon of the Virgin Mary, which arrived from Chosovo or Chosova in Palestine. Chosivas or Koziva’s location is found in the Holy lands near Jericho. The persecutions of the Christians in the 9th Century brought as by miracle the icon to Amorgos, a location that is said to have been chosen by the Virgin Mary herself. The renovation and whitewash of the walls all these years have covered important information about the history of the Monastery. During the Venetian rule (1296-1537) many changes and expansions were made leaving behind hints of western influence. Not even during Turkish rule (1537-1824) was the monastery’s prosperity interrupted. Its fortune allowed the bribery of its religious freedom from the Turkish Pashas. The monastery had shares of Crete, Lero, Naxos, Paros, and Astipalaia as well as the desert islands Kero, Nikouria and Grampoussa.

The Building

It’s definition plain. Austere lanky lines are in tune with the surrounding area. Even the recent buildings don’t alter the characteristic structure. It is 40 metres in length though its width is 5 metres. Narrow rocky steps lead to the 8 floors and unite parts of the monastery. Its arches are built with flint brought from Milos. The use of wood suggests the existence of forest in the area (particularly forests with certain types of cypress trees). The monastery is composed of the monks’ cells, the treasury, the kitchen, its ovens, its storage rooms, rooms for the bread baking, cellars for wines, rooms for the earthenware jars with oil as well as the lime pits and the wells. The furnaces and the cookhouses do not function anymore, although the treasury opens to the faithful on the 21st November during the Presentation of the Virgin Mary. In 1977 three small cells were combined and visitors can now admire some of the Monastery’s heirlooms while at the same time enjoying the citrus and marshmallow treats.
The Movie
All it took were some scenic plans from Luc Besson, specifically a panoramic view of the Monastery for viewers to be fascinated. The movie and the plot were lost in memories of film festivals, the heroes faded and were forgotten, but people were met with one of the rarest, most moving and powerful places in the world. When you come across a peaceful sea and get a birds eye view from the Monastery, then the expression “the big blue” is not just a cliche, it is something more than that. It is you.

Easter in Amorgos

For those who like to hike then they can follow the procession of the Virgin Mary’s icon from the Monastery to the villages of Aigialis and back. It is a 6-hour walk through the old lanes of the island, a hymn to nature and faith.

Author: Stratos Fragiadakis.
Bibliographic Source: ” THE MONASTERY OF PANAGIA CHOZOVIOTISSA” from the Mistress of Classic
Archeology in the University Jannina Mrs Lila Maragou.

Traditional flavors

Beyond its natural beauty, its warm people, its feasts and traditional architecture, Amorgos is also known for its local food and drinks. Amorgos offers to the visitor a wide variety of meals and pastries, which express the character and the hospitality of its inhabitants.
Patatato
A favourite and popular plate of the locals and the visitors of Amorgos Island. Mainly served on special occasions and celebrations (weddings, local celebrations etc). A selection of three kind of meat (lamb, goat and beef) cooked in red sauce with a vivid taste of Cinnamon. Cooked in huge pans for the religious festivals or traditional wedding, this meal can easily be found in taverns around the island.
Xidato
Very tasty and typic from Amorgos this meal is a soup of goat meat, garlic and vinegar. Mostly prepared for religious feasts it is served at the celebration of Agios Anargiron in Tholaria, Analipseos in Potamos, Epanochoriani in Lagada and Agia Paraskevi in Kato Meria.
Pasteli
This pastry made of sesame seeds and honey is usually made for celebrations such as weddings, baptism, feasts. The Amorgian version of the Pasteli wants it softer and reinforced with some cumin. It is served on a lemon tree leaf to anhance its distinctive taste. In August, takes place the Pasteli festival in Chora.

Beaches

Aegiali Beach
This is the biggest beach on the island and has soft sand and clear waters. It is ideal for anyone with children. A swim can be accompanied with coffee seeing as there are cafeterias lining the beach. There is easy access by foot to the beach of Levrossos or by boat from the port.
Levrossos
One of the nicest beaches of Amorgos, in Aegialis area. Levrossos is a sandy beach with very clear water surrounded by lush green gardens. It is unofficially a nudist beach, accessible in 20 minute walk from Aegiali village, or by regular boat crossings also during the summer season.
Mouros
With its deep blue hue and very clean water, Mouros is one of the most popular beach of Amorgos. Partly rocky Mouros has two underwater caves the right hand side as you walk down to the beach which can be reach by swimming and snorkeling. Near the small villages of Arkesini and Kamari, Mouros is in the south part of Amorgos. Just above the beach there is also a snack-bar that one can cool down his thirst or hunger.
Agia Anna
Down to Chozoviotissa Monastery, Agia Anna is considered as one of the most beautiful beach of Amorgos. It is a small rocky beach with spectacular beauty and clear transparent waters. There is a bus service from Hora at constant intervals. Walking through shallow waters for 10 minutes from Agia Anna you come to Kampi, a nudist beach with views of the Viocastro.

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